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I tried DeClicker on several test files I have. (When I run
into an issue during a project, I copy the worst offenders to
a “Save for Restoration Software Torture Testing” folder.) On
every one, the basic setting handled the problems; I didn’t
touch a single control. Finally, I pulled up a recording that
used a dirty clock connection we’re talking real speaker-
destroying spikes. DeClicker grabbed almost everything right
away. I was able to use the Exclude Box to keep the hi-hats
out of the removal path. I also wanted to keep some snare
hits, but you can have only one Ignore Box at a time. To get
around that, I opened up the expert settings and tweaked
until the snare was allowed to pass unaffected.
The second title in the Restore collection is DeBuzzer
(think guitar amps and single-coil pickups bzzzzzzzzz).
Most debuzzing applications use a standard comb filter that
removes the fundamental and its associated harmonics. For
60 Hz hum (or 50 Hz, depending on where you live), this has
been a straightforward process. However, when you run into
hums not associated with the electrical grid, this approach
falls apart. That’s because it is difficult to find the specific
source fundamental.
Sonnox has developed three tools to help users lock in on
these troublesome frequencies. First, there is a sweepable
Frequency Detect option. Just like it sounds, it allows you to
scan the area you suspect contains the problem energy. The
second is a large FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) display
specifically tuned to find consistent components while
averaging out other audio. As long as an instrument or voice
isn’t holding a note, the buzz should stand out visually on
this display. The third tool is a built-in tone generator.
DeBuzzer can generate a control tone that plays along with
the audio. As you sweep closer to the source of the buzz, the
control tone and the fundamental will have a slow beat
frequency. In use, this is very similar to tuning a guitar with
harmonics. Once you find the source fundamental, you select
it and tell DeBuzzer to attack. It will calculate a comb filter
specific to the source buzz and eliminate it. Fortunately, you
don’t need to remove buzz in audio very often; that being
said, when it’s present, it can ruin an entire track. Having
DeBuzzer, especially with its ability to seek and destroy non-
standard buzzes, is wonderful.
Reaching into my folder of horrors, I pulled out some
single-coil guitar buzz files. Not a problem for DeBuzzer. In
fact, the default setting removed the buzz as if it were never
there. Moving on, I used a live-sound recording where ground-
loop buzz tormented the bass and guitar tracks. With only
minimal tweaking to the defaults, DeBuzzer cleaned up the
audio. I finally found a recording that had fret buzz on an
acoustic. Chopping up the sections in Sequoia, I was able to
apply DeBuzzer to the sections that had the problem. Since I
couldn’t find a default that addressed this problem, I used the
FFT display to get an idea of where the problem was. Then I
used the tone generator to hone in on the fundamental. Once
I found the root, DeBuzzer did the rest. I wish I had DeBuzzer
back when we were working on that record.
Noise reduction is probably the first thing that comes to
mind when considering restoration software. There are a few
ways to go about noise removal; for example, one popular
application uses an approach based on digital imaging. But
most applications, DeNoiser included, use a “noise
fingerprint” method. This process works by isolating a region
where only background noise is present. The software
analyzes this noise and removes it from the entire file. Done.
In theory, this would be a perfect solution. But in the real
world, the noise is rarely static. DeNoiser takes a slightly
different route to determining what is noise and what is
desirable audio. It examines the entire audio spectrum to
determine where the noise occurs and how prevalent it is at
different frequencies over time. The “over time” part is the
key because DeNoiser evaluates the noise relative to the
general signal level. This means that DeNoiser shows
discretion as to the amount of noise it reduces. For example,
with traditional approaches, areas where there are pauses,
rests, or gaps will end up having the source audio removed
as the signal level drops to silence. Raising the removal
threshold would allow the source audio to stay. The trade off
is increased noise level. With DeNoiser, as the source audio
dips to the noise floor, only the noise is removed, leaving a
smooth decay into silence.
I used a couple of different sources to test DeNoiser. First, I
used a live recording done at the University of Pittsburgh’s
Bellefield Hall Auditorium with a spaced pair of Audio-Technica
AT4050 mics (Tape Op #33) set in omni. They picked up room
reflections and the HVAC system. This was a big test for
DeNoiser as the air conditioning would cycle at different times.
With other noise reduction applications, I would have needed
to slice the audio into segments when the HVAC was on or
off. Then, I would have had to process each differently and
string them back together. This would have taken a long time
for a 70 minute concert. DeNoiser was able to change the level
of processing on the fly. The real secret here was using the Diff
button, which allows you to hear the audio that will be
removed by DeNoiser (all of the Restore titles have this
feature). It’s easy to get carried away and overdo noise
reduction. With the Diff button enabled, you can adjust the
aggressiveness of the software until you start to hear audio
content. At that point, simply back off the reduction amount
and you are at an optimal “noise-removed-to-signal-
untouched ratio. And while no noise reduction program can
work miracles, the results with DeNoiser were very impressive.
In fact, average listeners who were unaware of the HVAC issue
never noticed it in the final render.
After using the Restore bundle for several months, I have
the following thoughts. (1) For many users, simply
instantiating the appropriate plug-in will solve your audio
woes. The default settings were perfect for a surprisingly
wide range of issues. However, if set-and-forget is not
enough, the advanced controls provide additional control
over processes. Actually, “additional” might not be the
correct term extensive is more appropriate. (2) It’s easy
to get lost in the controls. I recommend having a copy of
the manual nearby when going into a tweaking mode. There
are also about a dozen other interesting features that were
not covered here due to space constraints. Be sure to check
those out should you demo the software. (3) Finally, at a
street price of about $1900, Restore is a significant
investment. However, once you realize that Restore goes
head-to-head with offerings from CEDAR and other top-
notch titles, the price is but a fraction of what the other
options would cost.
Mastering and mixing engineers should strongly consider
the Restore bundle. It handled some of the toughest tasks I
gave it many times at the default setting. Impressive
indeed. ($1895 street; www.sonnoxplugins.com)
–Garrett Haines, www.treelady.com
Universal Audio
Manley Massive Passive plug-in
for UAD-2
There are probably two groups of people reading this
review. First is the group that shelled out around $4800 for
a hardware Massive Passive. This gang (myself included)
wants me to conclude that the plug-in is not the same as
the real thing. The second bunch is comprised of those who
have suffered through the rest of us raving about our
hardware. That group wants me to conclude that the plug-in
is a virtual twin, hence removing the need to purchase a
physical version.
I’m in trouble no matter what.
The Massive Passive plug-in requires a UAD-2 Card (Tape Op
#67, 73, 76) to run. One stereo instance takes up more than
half of the DSP of a UAD-2 Solo, while a Duo can run two,
and a Quad can support four with change to spare for
other plug-ins on all three cards, depending on the DSP
footprints of the other plug-ins. Mono instances of Massive
Passive require half the DSP power. Sample rates of
44.1–192 kHz are supported. The license also includes the
mastering version. The differences are filter values more
suited for mastering and the re-creation of the stepped
controls. Mastering engineers like those kinds of knobs for
recall purposes. Since the plug-in can already recall values
exactly, I don’t see a need to use the mastering version
unless you want different filter values. Also, you can’t sweep
the controls the way you can on the regular version. I think
sweeping the controls is one of the hallmark experiences of
using a Massive Passive.
I already see there are questions from the audience. I’ll
take a few now. Isn’t this just a newly built Pultec? No, it
has Pultec-like characteristics at times, but it’s very
different. I’ve heard it’s a very colored box, and some people
don’t like it. Why is that? Mastering engineers might find it
to be colored, but mixing engineers will consider it to be
musical and even neutral. In my opinion, there is a
difference when comparing the Massive Passive on
individual tracks versus a whole mix. Do you have any tips
for using it? Yes, ignore your eyes and use your ears; the
values that provide good results on this EQ are different
from other hardware you’ve used. What else is different
about the Massive Passive? Well, the bands are in parallel
instead of serial; therefore, they interact. The bandwidth
controls can create some crazy response curves, so it’s best
to experiment with them. Also, bandwidth changes the
amount of boost or cut. This is commonly referred to as
proportional-Q. Conversely, small changes have wider
curves, and bigger changes have narrower curves. Where
can I go to learn more about this thing? Everyone, and I
mean everyone who engineers, should download the
manual from Manley’s website. It contains a very detailed
discussion of EQs, history, and topology from Craig
Hutchinson, who was the long-time Chief Designer at
Manley Labs. I’ll take more questions in a moment. I need
to get back to the review.
One problem with an exact comparison between the plug-
in and the hardware is that the plug-in lives in the digital
domain, and the original gear is analog. For some, this is
obvious, while others may need to draw a picture. Depending
on your source (digital or analog) there will always be an
extra D/A and/or A/D conversion.
I hate to get all audio-snob magazine writer” and go
through setup, but I think it’s warranted in this case.
Gear Reviews/
(continued on page 58)/
Tape Op#79/
57
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